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Where to eat Lakis Taverna is a solid, family taverna at the heart of the village. The contemporary interior design gives a light and airy feel. Where to stay Tucked away in the winding alleys of Spartochori, The Teacher’s House (studio from €65, family apartment from €100) has been expertly renovated, and split into a studio and two apartments that share a small pool. Limonari, with its isolated clean sands, would be in most people’s top five. Most can only be reached by foot or by boat, so it will take you a while to review them all. What to do There is much debate as to which beach is Meganisi’s best. Staying on the island means you can explore its many “hidden” coves at your leisure. Just across from popular Lefkada, it’s not usually considered a destination in its own right, and is mainly visited on day trips. This small island consists of only three villages and a population of just over 1,000. There is often live music in the evenings. Try a seafood pikilia, or mixed plate – calamari, shrimps, mussels and various small fried fish. Where to eat Grammofono ( on Facebook), on the main square by a taxi rank, is not in the best location, but this little meze bar takes its food seriously and is great value.

It is in the centre of Myrina, but on a quiet side street and a short walk to the beach.

Where to stay The Arxontiko (€70, ) was Lemnos’ first hotel and is still one of its best, mixing a traditional guesthouse with modern boutique style. The spectacular view stretches as far as the monks’ republic of Mount Athos on the mainland. What to do Perched on a headland above the capital is a large, 13th-century Venetian castle, now inhabited by wild deer.

The capital, Myrina, is a working fishing port and you will still see fishermen mending their nets by the harbourside. Mainly visited by Greeks, its size and large population mean that Lemnos (aka Limnos) avoids becoming simply a tourist destination.

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